Showing posts with label albania. Show all posts
Showing posts with label albania. Show all posts

Saturday, November 21, 2009

Albania's History

I thought the best introduction I could provide about Albania is to talk about its past. I will talk a little bit about the distant past – such as the Greek, Roman and Ottoman empire, but mostly about the country’s recent past of Communism and its lasting effects on the country today.

For those of you who are not familiar with Albania, it is in South-Eastern Europe in the Balkans, on the Adriatic and Ionian Sea across from Italy, and directly above Greece. Albanians today are related to the old Illyrian tribes, and Albanian territory at some point has been controlled by the Illyrians, Romans, Venetians, Slavs, Ottomans, Germans, Modern Italians, and finally after World War II it became the country it is now. The Albanian nation does not only extend to Albania though, but there are high populations in neighboring countries such as in the city of Ulqin in Montenegro, Tetovo in Eastern Macedonia, and in Kosovo. The country’s borders were only determined in 1912, when its neighboring countries were already established. Thus, Albania had to negotiate with all of the countries in order to obtain its land today. This leads to large Albanian populations living outside of its own country, because the division of land never goes by population anywhere – it is always about each country wanting as much territory as possible.

In Albanian there are many remnants of its past – it is easy to drive down the “highway” and see far off castles on hilltops that were built in the early centuries AD. There is a popular site of ruins, Butrinti, dating back to before the 4th Century BC. It is a country where you can really feel and experience some of its past, and I like that about the country. Albania is extremely proud about its Illyrian past, and how they existed as a separate population among great nations like the Romans.

In my opinion though the history gets more interesting as it goes on; in the middle of the 14th century, the Ottoman Empire came and conquered the land, making it part of their empire. The Ottoman influence explains why 70% of the country is Muslim today, and the old Venetian influence explains why in Northern Albania there are also many Catholics. The various invaders each left part of their culture behind, which makes Albania extremely diverse and unlike its neighboring nations.

The problem with the Ottoman Empire led to the creation of Albania’s national hero – Skanderberg or Skanderbeu, in English and Albanian. Skanderbeu (I will use the Albanian name), attempted to reunite all Albanian territory in the middle of the 15th After Skanderbeu’s death in the 1460’s, the Ottomans regained power of Albania, and ruled over this area until the 1900’s. Century and to salvage his nation from the Turks. He was not Muslim, and he stood for his own Christian religion, and to stand separate from the Ottoman Empire. He was one of the first people to attempt to unite an entire Albanian empire; prior to Skanderbeu, Albania was many smaller clans and individual empires.

After World War I, a man declared himself as King and tried to establish a monarchy, however King Zog was quickly defeated by the Italians, who conquered Albania. Much of the present day architecture and lay out of the streets in Tirana is thanks to their planning and architecture. However, after World War II, Italy relinquished its power over Albania, and Albania was finally its own country and left to itself.

I would think that this would be positive – however as soon as this happened, Enver Hoxha emerged as a brutal Communist dictator. Our guide Ilir refers to him constantly as “our dictator,” as if he is even afraid to speak his name. Many people do not know about Albania’s Communist past – perhaps that is because Albania was one of the most secluded countries to exist. At first Hoxha modeled itself after Russia – and many different kinds of power plants sprouted up named “Stalin Power Plant” or “Lenin Coal Mine,” etc. However, Hoxha soon thought that Russia was too revisionist in its Communist ideals, and he cut ties with Russia. Afterwards Hoxha started to begin relations with Mao in China, and all of the plants that used to be named after Lenin, now were christened after Mao. Just like with Russia though. Hoxha thought Mao did not understand Communism, and parted ways.

During the Communist era, no one was allowed to leave the country, let alone their villages. It was illegal to move from your village to another city, and you had to live where you were registered. The only people that could leave the country were involved with Tourism for the promotion of the state, such as our tour guide, and he was not allowed to speak about the difficulties in Albania when he left. Inside of the country, no one was allowed to own a car, which is perhaps why the roads are in such a dismal state today. The roads were all rocks and gravel and not paved whatsoever.

Clothing and personal style were extremely limited: everyone had to wear the same thing. No one was allowed to wear jeans, and men were not allowed to have beards or long hair. When foreigners came into the country, they had to cut their hair and shave their beards at the border, or they were not allowed inside of the country. Apparently beards are too “western” and are all about fashion, thus they must be a completely evil influence!

Ilir told us many stories about the rigidity of Hoxha’s regime: parents being put in jail for giving their children foreign names, being brutally beaten for talking to foreigners, being imprisoned for accepting a foreign music cassette… It was really surprising because when we hear about strict communist regimes, Albania does not immediately come to mind – at least not for me.

Friday, August 28, 2009

FAQs

So I haven't updated for two weeks -- sorry! Take this as a good sign that I've been happy and busy and enjoying myself in Kosovo! Since my last update, I've done a lot of things: I've gone to Skopje, the capital of Macedonia, discovered a bar with live music that plays traditional Albanian music every Monday, decided I will go to law school next year (!), ate a fabulous traditional Albanian dinner, and of course, made some new friends in Pristina.

For this entry, I decided to write a sort of FAQ about Kosovo and my life here. I will put up some funny questions people asked me about Kosovo, some general facts I think are important.

General Information: What do you call someone who lives in Kosovo?
-The population is about 2.2 million people.
-Around 90% identify themselves as Albanian, 7% Serbian, 3% Minority, such as Roma, Ashkali and Egyptian.
-Albanian/minority relations don't seem to be strained here: I've been to Ashkali villages where people speak Albanian and get along with Albanians, and everything is fine.
-The conflict is between Kosovar-Albanian and Kosovar-Serbians. The majority of people here do not say they are 'Kosovar' but rather that they are Albanian or Serbian. The establishment of the country of Kosovo does not eliminate old ethnic prejudices, in fact it only strengthens them.
-There are Serbian enclaves in Kosovo where mainly Serbians live, and they use the Serbian Dinar there as currency instead of the Euro (the Kosovar currency.)
-I haven't met any Serbians in Pristina, I don't think many live here.
-Around 87% of the population is Muslim; most Albanians here are Muslim, with a very small minority being Catholic. Most Serbians here are Serbian Orthodox. In 2004, some Albanian extremists threw grenades and destroyed Serbian monasteries, most of which are now under protection of NATO K-FOR.
-Most people I have met here say they are not religious. It is not Ramadan (pronounced Ramazan here), and the majority of my friends do not fast, or ever go to mosque, and I hardly ever see any women covered. Islam here is more cultural than religious, it is a way to separate yourself from the Serbians. The reason people in Kosovo are Muslim is because the Ottoman Empire was here for hundreds of years, and they adopted to the religion.
-On highways, the city names are written in both Albanian and Serbian.

Culture: What are people like?

-People here get married very young! A guy told me (in the nicest way possible) that when I turn 24, I will be too old to get married, as people will wonder why no man has wanted to marry me yet. I'll be an old maid by 25, and have to live with my parents forever. Well I think this was a bit of a conservative view (I've met people over 25 who aren't married of course), but many people here get married VERY young.
-Families are big! My friend Vigan has 7 brothers and sisters, and I've met a lot of people who have huge families.
-It is completely normal to live with your families until you get married, and even after marriage. People are always surprised when they hear that I went to college far away and that I like living on my own. Living is expensive here, so many people live together so they can afford the high rent. My 30 year old female co-worker lives in a house with her parents and her brother and her brother's wife and children, and she is perfectly happy like this.
-Women here are very feminine and always dress up to the nines. I feel like a slob here sometimes because I don't spend a long time putting on make-up every day and wear high heels.
-It's unusual for women to spend time alone at restaurants or cafes. Someone told me if I went out to dinner by myself, everyone would stare at me and wonder why I have no friends, and wonder what's wrong with me. It's true that people here do tend to stare a lot at anyone who looks different than themselves.
-They love dairy here. Someone told me, "I would die if I didn't eat dairy products!" after I said I didn't want to drink any yogurt. I already told you about drinking yogurt - didn't I? It's not really my thing.

Money, How much do things cost?
-There is 40% unemployment.
-If you have a steady job, the average income is 150 Euro a month. If you have a great job, like a doctor, your income will be around 350 Euro a month. My apartment's rent is 350 Euro a month, and that is quite cheap for here, so how people could ever live alone is a mystery to me.
-At a nice bar, one beer costs 1.5 Euro. At a nice club, a beer costs 2 Euro. Outside of the city, a beer costs around 70 cents.
-There is a traditional Albanian restaurant which is quite nice, where you can get a cooked trout, vegetables, and bread for 5 Euro, and it's delicious! Food here can be very cheap.
-A gourment sandwich (yes! i found a place!) costs about 2.70 Euro! Though they aren't quite as good as Carma's (the best sandwich place ever, in Baltimore), they are still pretty good, and one of the only places I have found Turkey here.
-One makkiato (latte) costs 5o-70 cents at a cafe. People here drink coffee all the time, and sit for hours relaxing at outdoor cafes.
-A taxi anywhere in the city will cost you less than 4 Euro, unless you are traveling from the bus station, which is outside of the city center, into the city. I've actually only taken a cab once, because the city center is really small.

Water, Electricity, Daily Life: So do you sit in the dark a lot?
-My water is now (mostly) hot! I don't know what was wrong with it before, but everything has been great for the past two weeks!
-Last week my electricity went off every single day. Outside of Pristina, this is quite and people don't have energy more often than they do. When my electricity went out, I would just take a nap, there isn't anything else to do. The electricty also went out when I was grocery shopping, when I was at a restaurant (so we ate in the dark of course!) and when I was at work.
-My co-worker lives outside of the city and says he only has water at night, and this means his wife has to cook and save all the water just at night so they can use it during the rest of the day. Imagine a whole day without water, and every night having to guess how much you will want the next day.

Nightlife: So what do you do at night?

-Pristina has an amazing nightlife! For a country that is extremely poor, people here sure know how to have fun! I go out a lot, even on weeknights (EVERYONE does!) Many streets in the city center are lined up and down with cafe/bars. Pubs don't really exist here - but people always sit outside at little tables and relax.
-At midnight, most bars close, and people move to clubs. Clubs stay open really late, and usually you have to pay 2 Euro to get into the "cool" ones.
-There is one street here, Mother Teresa, which is a pedestrian street, and at night it is teeming with young adults, teenagers, and kids. Since teenagers can't go to clubs, they literally walk up and down this street all night. It's a place where you can pepole watch, hang out with your friends, it's really the place to be if you are anywhere between the ages of 7 and 18.

Work: What do you do at work exactly?

-Well you know a little about what my organization does. As I am the only international, and everyone else here is Albanian, my English skills have come in quite useful. I spend a lot of time reading over grant proposals and editing them. I've learned about the way organizations run and how you get funding. A lot of it is about balancing your organization's goals with the goals of your sponsors, and it is very useful knowledge for me, as I would like to continue working with NGO's.

Overall, Kosovo is not like you would expect it to be. Most people think this is a place of war, and a lot of Europeans have extremely negative stereotypes about Albanians. This of course has been the exact opposite of my experience here. The nicest people I've ever met has been here - everyone is friendly, loves foreigners, and want to help you with anything you need. I really want to work to reduce Kosovo's negative image and the stigma attached to the world's newest country.

As much as is a misunderstanding about what life is like in Kosovo, there are also funny views of what life is like in the US. One of my co-workers told me that a cup of coffee from Starbucks was $9. As expesnsive as Starbucks can be, I've never paid that much! She assured me though that she was right, and I was wrong, and she knew it was that much. Well, as I would say, that must have been golden coffee.
When I asked someone here if I could drink the tap water, and she said yes, she then told me that it was safe unlike the dangerous water in the US. I asked her what she meant, and she replied that when she visited New York, she didn't drink tap water the whole time she was there. She thought that the water was unsafe and would make her terribly sick if she drank it. I thought this was really funny, seeing how usually we obsess over water quality when we travel, but I never thought about how foreigners, especially from a developing country, would think the same thing about the US.

Well I think this is enough for now, I can't talk about everything this second, then you'll be in danger of not hearing from me for another two weeks. I am going on a day trip this weekend to another city in Kosovo, so I will be sure to have something for you sometime next week!



PS: The information included in this entry is from personal experiences, conversations, and what I've read, some of the numbers may not be 100% accurate, but they are what I've been told.